My memories of Jell-O pudding go way back. My grandpa’s famous chocolate mud pie relies on a box of this instant dessert to come to life. When I was a kid, a pudding cup was a must in my lunchbox.

There’s something comforting about Jell-O, that simple-if-jiggly edible pleasure that reminds us of cafeteria lunches back in elementary school. But Jell-O is a versatile product (and cooking ...