“It’s here that you can see the real Sicily,” says Miri Salamone, staring into the abyss. Clouds swamp the valley below and fog floods mountain gullies, dissolving even Sutera’s hilly peaks from view.

Propelled by HBO’s “The White Lotus,” Sicily has become an increasingly popular international destination. But while the tourism focus has remained on the northeast part of the island, in the coastal ...

Ever heard of islands that seem to float between time and dream? Welcome to Sicily, and just beyond its northern coast, ...